Eat, Pray, Love?? August 10, 2020 “Don’t find love, let love find you. That’s why it is called falling in love because you do not force yourself to fall, you just fall.” – Unknown While in Saigon (Ho Chi Min City), Vietnam, I began to get weak and the EXTREME heat was really getting to me. Covid-19 was ramping up and I was beginning to get scared that I would be unable to get home if my condition worsened. I ended up in a Vietnamese ER one day and I decided then I would need to return home when I could to be near my specialists. If you have been following along, you know I have ITP, an autoimmune disorder. This meant I could not risk catching Covid-19 and my peace of mind by being closer to my doctors would help me tremendously. Shawn was meeting me in Bali the following week and I decided I would stay in South East Asia and fly home with him. Flashback: November 2019. I was preparing for my grand adventure to South East Asia. Spending time with friends, family, and enjoying my last few weeks in Nashville. I was out with my friend, John, for a drink. I was checking messages on a dating app and a guy staying in my building on a work trip was messaging me. I agreed to have him meet John and me for a drink. Not really expecting much of anything to come from it. Something unique happened in my gut within moments of meeting him. We ended up spending most of his free time together during his time in Nashville. He left town and I could not stop thinking about our chats and the time we spent together. So, I decided to keep texting him. This was much to his surprise as well. We continued to get to know each other over text, calls, and video calls. He drove to Kentucky to see me over the holidays and then drove me to Nashville to catch my flight. I left on my trip and we still continued to learn more about each other. This guy is Shawn. Fast forward… My time was up in Saigon and I was ready for Bali. I had dreamed of Bali ever since I read the book Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert, and saw the movie starring Julia Roberts. On my entire trip, I have been learning and trying to find that inner peace. The ability to just be, has long eluded me. My trip to Bali was going to look very different than planned because instead of four weeks I was only going to get one. Yet, I was not sad or upset because I knew the week with Shawn was going to be amazing. My flight landed, I went through customs and prepared to call my car to pick me up. I turned a corner and there stood Shawn. Instead of a car, he decided to just meet me at the airport. So, there he stood with a cold Coca-Cola in hand. It was such a sweet gesture. We made our way to the resort. Remember, I have been staying in hostels for three months. Shawn had reserved a resort, M.A.N. Resort. I am not gonna lie, I was looking forward to a little luxury. Our room was absolutely beautiful and I knew it was going to be a great stay. Not only was the room perfect, but I also walked into the bedroom and there on the bed was a giant heart made of … GRIPPOs BBQ chips. Now, that is the way to my heart. Dinner on the beach at sunset. Could it be more perfect? Nope! Shawn and I walked along the beach at sunset on our first night. The colors on the horizon, the soft breeze, and the distant sound of music were all so very much out of a movie. We decided on a quiet beach restaurant with lanterns for lighting, soft pillows for seating, right on the sand. The meal was delightful, the atmosphere was spectacular and the company was perfect. The heat in Bali was unlike any I have ever experienced. My clothing was instantly drenched within 10 minutes of being outside. There were hot days during most of my trip, but this was a unique kind of hot. I spoke with the owner of the resort and he mentioned it was because they did not have a true rainy season in 2019. So, during the day we usually stayed near the pool. We did do some beach exploring and such, but usually, they were short trips to and from. The beach was almost as stunning during the day as it is at sunset. It was time for our first excursion that Shawn had planned for us. I spent most of my trip abroad very unplanned. I was learning to let go, but for Shawn, he needed some structure, and to be honest, I did too. Our driver arrived and off we went. We arrived a bit earlier than necessary so he suggested we stop by the nearby coffee plantation for a tour. The two of us do not drink coffee, but we figured why not. Lumbung Sari Pecatu, the staff was brilliant and the drinks were actually pretty good. We did the sampler, free of charge. They just ask that you consider a purchase from the shop. We had all of their coffee and tea options and I must say they were very lovely. The Luwak coffees are interesting and watching them split the bean from the animal feces is something. I would definitely recommend it as a stop. After leaving the coffee plantation we arrived at the entrance for the Ulawatu Temple tour and Fire Dance. It was so uncomfortably hot that it almost ruined this portion of the trip for me. Luckily, as the sun began to set, it became tolerable. The views from the cliffside temple were out of this world! The temples of Bali are very different from the temples of Thailand. Both beautiful in their own right. There were several services going on while we there and the tourists were plentiful. Everyone seemed to be awaiting the fire dance show. Just a short walk from the temple was an amphitheater on the cliff with perfect sunset views. The performance was the traditional Balinese Kecak and Fire Dance. It depicts the Hindu drama Ramayana, a battle between the monkey-like Vanaras and the evil King Ravana. Usually performed by a chorus of up to 150 men. It was spectacular to watch and the White Monkey stole the show by inserting a lot of humor into his performance. As we were leaving, it began to rain, just in time for our couples massage. This was much needed after the HOT day we had. The following day Shawn made one of my biggest dreams come true. He booked us a sunset horseback ride on the beach. Horses have long been a passion of mine and in all my years, riding on the beach reigned supreme on my bucket list. Finally, the day had come to make it a reality. There was one other couple who was on our ride and they were very kind. Shawn is very inexperienced when it comes to riding, but he was willing to do this for me. Galloping (check my Instagram for video) through the waves and the freedom I always feel on horseback were awe-inspiring. I could write a whole post just on this one evening but I will spare you. If you ever get the chance to ride horses on the beach at sunset, I highly recommend it. The folks at Kuda P Stables were very nice and accommodating. It was definitely one of the absolute highlights of my time abroad. The heat was really tying us to the resort and we both wanted to see more of the island. We decided to get order a car and head out on a day adventure. So we landed on a trip to the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, in Ubud. It was a beautiful park, the monkeys are very curious and friendly, and yes, it was HOT! This was Shawn’s favorite part of the trip. He even got really up close with some monkey friends and he squealed. It was adorably hilarious. The park was not crowded, we were able to really take our time and explore. It was beautiful and the day was amazing. Falling in love is weird, tricky, and fantastic. It can be confusing, scary, and wonderful. This journey to the other side of the world was meant to teach me to let go. I wanted to learn to just let life take me where it will. Over time and distance, I knew I loved Shawn. On this trip, it became clear I had fallen in love. Now, we are on an incredible new journey. Stay Tuned! Paradise Finds You May 14, 2020 “Paradise has never been about the places. It exists in moments. In connection. In flashes across time.”― Victoria Erickson Stunning beaches, bicycle-only roadways, friendly people and stunning colorful lanterns lighting the way. Paradise it seems was found. The heat hits you in the face when you exit your room, but the shores of the beach give you the much needed cool down. The hustle and bustle of neighboring cities wear you down, but the calm of this little town gives you the quiet you desire. Hoi An, Vietnam, The City of Lanterns, on the surface could be called Paradise in many ways. After all the travel changes and dealing with the impending Covid-19 issues, this was the first truly solo stop of my adventure. I took the city bus from DaNang to Hoi An. It was a simple and inexpensive way to arrive. My homestay was just a few blocks from the bus station, so I choose to walk. I arrived and was left waiting for the staff to arrive. I waited nearly an hour and for a moment was getting frustrated. Time then began to speed by as I spent most of my time exploring the gardens and seeing the multitude of plants. The Red Ceramics (RC) Homestay definitely was lovely. The room situation was not as it was explained online and I had a few unfortunate roommates, but overall my lodging was fine. Luckily, RC provided bicycles for residents to use. This was perfect since we were a bit out of town. The first evening and morning I pretty much stayed nearby. The following evening I decided to explore. I hit the road on my bicycle. Old Town Hoi An is exactly what I pictured Vietnam to look like. Small streets, no cars, and lanterns everywhere. It was stunningly beautiful. The global pandemic was starting to pick up speed, so the crowds were small, making the town easily maneuvered. The river and the shops along the way are the perfect spots to spend an evening and to watch the sunset. The gondola rides down the river appeared to be lovely and romantic. I did not take one, seeing as I was solo. 🙂 The Sky Lanterns were a sight to see as people set them off just after the sunset. The beaches of Hoi An are just remarkably beautiful. I spent most mornings set up at Sound of Silence beachside coffee shop. The breeze, wonderful juices, and quiet atmosphere helped me be very productive. Due to the aforementioned pandemic, I pretty much had the beach to myself most days. I would ride my bike out to the beach each morning and enjoy the views along the way. You never knew what or who you would meet along the way. Each and every morning I passed a water buffalo tied along the roadside. I took to calling him Tuesday, as I first saw him on Tuesday afternoon. In the afternoons after the beach, I would move to a town coffee shop to continue my day. Here I was able to make some new friends, mostly other nomads. It made for lovely days. One evening Chuck was coming down from DaNang to meet an old friend of his, Beverly. They were planning to have dinner and I was asked to tag along. It was lovely meeting her and her sweet friend. I learned a lot from them and the food was delish. A real highlight came my last evening in Hoi An. Travis, an old friend from Nashville asked me to meet him and his girlfriend for dinner. He is a pilot who now lives in Vietnam. It was so wonderful to catch up with him. His girlfriend, Nga, is so very lovely and kind. On top of the wonderful company was one of the best meals I had on my journey. Am Vegetarian Restaurant was so very good. We ordered a mix of food and it was all fantastic. While in Hoi An I felt connected, stayed in the moments, and enjoyed every flash in time. It truly was Paradise. It was one of my favorite stops but I took the fewest photos. Along my time in South East Asia, I loved many stops. Hoi An was truly the first place that I stopped and thought “I could live here.” Life’s a Beach, Enjoy the Waves April 6, 2020 “there’s nothing more beautiful than the way the ocean refuses to stop kissing the shoreline, no matter how many times it’s sent away.” – Sarah Kay As the train came to a halt and it was time to disembark I was both excited and nervous. These same feelings have hit me with every new location along this incredible journey. It took me a couple of stops to realize that it was normal to have these and most importantly it was OK to have them. Here I was in another new city, this time Da Nang, Vietnam. I made my way via a Grab Car (think Lyft) and to my hostel. I choose this one for the fact it had a coffee shop on-premises and the location – halfway between the city and the beach. It was really my determining factor, as I had no idea what areas were best to choose. I had arrived about two hours early for check-in and was prepared to wait. The lovely young lady at the desk offered me a drink (lemon iced tea) while I waited. I drug out my laptop and tried out the wifi. After several locations with poor service, I was happy to have good internet. In about 30 minutes I was informed my room was ready and I moved in. The bed was a bunk, but it was a double instead of a twin and provided some privacy as three sides were walled. The room had a private bath and balcony, which were all perks. The only thing I was not expecting was my singing roommate, who preferred to practice her operatic notes at 2 am. Otherwise, it was a perfectly fine room for my five nights in Da Nang. The first evening after getting settled in, I went for my 30-minute walk to meet up with Chuck (staying in another part of the city) to see the beach. It was already dark, so I mostly enjoyed the quiet. Other than the waves crashing onto the shore, there was not much else going on. It was peaceful and beautiful. But I quickly realized that the beach was a much-needed reprieve for me, one I did not realize I needed. My Khe Beach during the day is another beast. Still beautiful, but you definitely will not find yourself in solitude. Despite this, as I walked along, the waves crashing over my feet, I still felt a sense of letting go. Letting go of what? I was not quite sure yet. In each city, I have kinda struggled to find a place to really sit down and work. I jumped around and tried new places each day. I assumed this would be the case again here in Da Nang, but I was wrong. The first morning I settled in at Ruya Coffee and it was the perfect place for me to dig in and get some work done. The second floor was my private office the entire week I was there and the lemon tea here was so refreshing. I would get up and walk along the beach and then settle in to get some work done. My creative juices really started flowing for me. The one thing you will always find when researching Da Nang is about the Dragon Bridge, which is spectacular in every way. It is large, it looks like a dragon, it changes colors via lights and on the weekends it breathes fire and spits water. It is a unique structure that creates an even more unique experience. When the world is not on the verge of a global pandemic, thousands gather every weekend to watch the show. I was there just as trouble began, so it was more like hundreds, but the AWE of it was not lost. What you do not read about as often are the other stunning bridges along the river and the number of buildings with LED light shows adorning their facade. The people of Da Nang love to put on a show and it is magic to the senses to watch. Marble Mountain could have a post all to itself and maybe it will, but for now, I will share a snip-it of the majestic mountain. Chuck and I decided to tackle this adventure together. I had heard it was not that big a deal to see and I had heard it was something I should not miss. Upon the urging of a new friend, Ivan, we went. If you ever find yourself in this part of the world and do not stop here, you have done yourself a disservice. It is absolutely breathtaking from inside the caves of marble to the views from the peak of the mountain. I must admit, that I could not fathom making this hike during the summer in Vietnam, as it was so very hot the day of our climb. The caves provided some relief from time to time and we even found a couple of rockways that the breeze felt as if the AC had been turned on. We both took several moments through the time there to just soak it all in. As I met people and explored the city, it became clear that there are not any strangers in Da Nang, Vietnam. There are only friends you have not met yet. The friendly nature of everyone I came in contact with was amazing. I made so many new friends in my week here (I extended by two days) and I know many will be in my life for years to come. I met Ivan and he gave me so many pointers for my upcoming time in Bali. I met Vincent who owned The Story, a bar that became my hang. I became friends with Rex and Joe who were also traveling from the States. And I met Viet, who not only was a great friend and showed me around the city, he opened up his home to me when I decided to extend my stay. I will never stop mentioning how the people I have met have shaped me over the last several months. Da Nang was no different, as I know I will continue to learn and grow from those I am lucky enough to encounter on the adventure of life. Just like the ocean refuses to stop kissing the shore, I refuse to stop exploring, learning and living life to the fullest. The sites I have seen, the food I have eaten, the obstacles I have overcome and friends I have made all have made me a better and more aware person. I hope I never take these kinds of things for granted again. I Think I Can, I Think I Can. March 25, 2020 “I like trains. I like their rhythm, and I like the freedom of being suspended between two places, all anxieties of purpose taken care of: for this moment I know where I am going.”― Anna Funder After the lessons learned in Hanoi, Vietnam, and the time needed to absorb them, it was time to move on to the next part of my adventure. Granted, my timeline had now changed since I was cutting my time short in Hanoi. I made a mad dash to change reservations and decide how I was going to make my way to the next stop: Da Nang, Vietnam. I kept repeating to myself I think I can, I think I can. Growing up (as mentioned in an earlier post), “The Little Engine That Could” was my favorite book as a child. It has shaped my life in more ways then I knew until this trip. Beyond just my affinity for trains, it has given me the inclination to never give up, because I can get where it is I want to go. I had been told about the overnight train in Vietnam and it was a no brainer that this would be how I would arrive in my next locale. There are several options when taking the train from Hanoi to other parts of Vietnam. Do you want a seat, a sleeper, size of the sleeper, hard or soft sleeper, or a private sleeper? I knew I wanted to do the overnight ride, which meant I definitely wanted a sleeper. It is about a 15-hour journey so I would for sure want to snooze some of it. The price differences were not that great so we (Chuck and I) opted for a 4 berth soft sleeper. This meant it also included AC which was a nice thing to have for a more comfortable sleep. We arrived at the Hanoi train station early and had some time to kill. The station was nothing like you would picture, it was bright and empty. We did have some time to grab some Bahn Mi to take on the train and a few snacks. 4 Berth Soft Sleeper Car It was not long and we were boarding the train. I was super excited and this question raced through my mind several times, “Why do we not have more trains in the United States??” We made our way to our bunks and we were the only ones in our four-person room. Things were looking up and it was time for us to embark on yet another journey. The bed was good enough for the ride and better than some hostels I have stayed at on this trip. We had our sandwiches and then settled in for some sleep while it was dark and raining. During the night we gained some bunkmates at a stop along the way. I awoke to the sun shining through the cabin window. Chuck slid open the cabin door to show me the views we were about to see. He had already taken this same path a year ago, so he knew what was to come. I, however, did not. I got up and went out into the car where my jaw immediately dropped. It was the most magical of morning sites I had seen on this trip. The landscape was lush, the sky was blue, the fog was mild and, for the first time, I saw green that was as green as Ireland. The waves were crashing against the rocks, the vines were growing up every structure and tree within reach, and the clouds danced on the horizon. The sun was bright and the sky was clear, but there remained a light drizzle of rain which just caused everything to sparkle in the rays of the sun. For just a few minutes, everything else on my mind just disappeared. We continued this majestic ride for about another hour before reaching our destination. Hai Van Pass is just a spectacular place and my only regret from this part of the trip is not taking the time after arriving to motorbike up and spend more time there. But we arrived and it was time to make my way to my hostel, where I would be staying for the week in Da Nang. I would highly recommend the overnight train as your best form of travel in the country of Vietnam. I had hours to think with just the sound of the train as it made its way along the tracks. I slept better than I had in weeks on the train, as my mind seemed to have let go of most thoughts, even if just for a brief moment in time. Waking up to the views of Hai Van Pass and the eastern coast of Vietnam wiped away all worries and fears. For a small span of time, I only knew my destination and was not concerned with the what-ifs of getting there. Bahn Mi Reigns Supreme March 21, 2020 “One cannot think well, love well, sleep well if one has not dined well.”― Virginia Woolf Learning about the food of each region, country, and people I have come across is one of my favorite parts of this trip. The food is distinctly different in each region even within the same country. The cuisine can teach you so much about the history and culture of a people. Hanoi is no different and it was fun to explore some of the local specialties. Sandwiches to me are boring and I am just not a huge fan. They are more of a conduit for soup or other dishes. Previously, I would rarely order a sandwich and never would I suggest one as a dinner option. Bahn Mi has changed that for me. Bahn Mi is the Vietnamese word for bread but when eaten as a meal it is a baguette split lengthwise and filled with toppings. Generally, this is a meat, coriander leaf, cucumber, pickled carrots, and pickled daikon combined with the french condiment pâté, along with chili and mayonnaise. I am not a sandwich guy, but y’all!!! During the French War here in Vietnam lots of things came about. One of the best of those was the way in which the Vietnamese people took French bread making and made it their own. I can not seem to get enough of this particular dish and have it multiple times a week. Go with the mix (mixed meats) and get it spicy and you can thank me later. Bahn Mi There are zero metrics where someone would call me a coffee drinker. I do not like coffee at all. I had heard all about this magical Egg Coffee in Hanoi and well figured I had to try it. Egg coffee is a decadent blend of coffee, whipped egg, and butter. It came about in 1946 during the French War due to a milk shortage. Nguyen Van Giang was the creator of this now famous cup o’ joe. Chuck first took me to Cafe Pho Co. It is a very hidden little gem and a must-visit. Firstly, you enter through a silk shop. Crazy right?!? There will be people riding their motorbikes through the shop, do not panic. You will reach a courtyard where you place your order. Following this, you make your way to the 4th-floor rooftop. Here you get amazing views of the lake and it is a peaceful moment away from the hustle and bustle. My egg coffee was soon delivered and it was pretty great. I enjoyed it, this coming from someone who can not stand coffee. But can you really say you have had the full experience if you have not been to the original? A couple of days later we decided to make our way to the home of Egg Coffee, Cafe Giang. It is also pretty well hidden and you climb some tiny, sketchy stairs to arrive. I decided to go a little different on this particular day. I got the Egg Rum. It was espresso, rum, egg, chocolate, and butter. Holy Moses was it tasty. All in all my review of egg coffee is that it is definitely worth a try and lives up to the hype. Egg Rum Coffee (top) & Egg Coffee (bottom) Finding the dish that originated in a place really tells you a lot about the people. I was told if it were a great combination of savory and fresh flavors I was looking for, I had to have the Hanoi born Bun Cha. Simply put it is vermicelli noodles (bun), a bowl of broth with grilled pork, and a basket of fresh greens. Nearly every dish comes with a specific noodle in Vietnam and it does not take long to pick dishes out by the type of noodles used. Bun Cha is no different. The pork in this dish comes ground and in almost a meatball form. Greens served on the side are usually fresh lettuce, Thai basil, cilantro, fish mint, banana flower, and coriander. The broth is a sweet and sour broth which is used more as a dipping sauce than a soup. It definitely had a unique flavor and I am glad that I had a chance to try it. It does not rank up there with my favorite dishes, but the importance of Bun Cha was not lost on me. I had some yummy meals during my time in Hanoi. Bahn Mi though definitely was one of those that I know will always stick out in my mind. Misc Meals in Hanoi Seeing the Silver Lining March 8, 2020 “We don’t develop courage by being happy every day. We develop it by surviving difficult times and challenging adversity.”– Barbara De Angelis I was very excited to be reaching Hanoi, Vietnam. It was the first city I would arrive in completely solo and Chuck had told me how it was one of his favorites. I was ecstatic about exploring it, but, no doubt, a bit nervous to finally be going at it solo. Needless to say, the solo portion of my trip would find itself on hold because, due to coronavirus, Chuck would be changing his travel plans and also going to Hanoi at the same time. It was time for my two weeks in Hanoi, Vietnam, to begin. Upon landing, we went straight for the ATM, it was time to get some local currency. Cards are rarely taken in Vietnam and using their local currency is preferred. I inserted my “international” debit card and for the first time on the trip, it did not work. I moved to the next machine and the same thing happened. I made my way to a third and again, nothing. I checked my balance, just to be sure. In fact, it was exactly as it was supposed to be. Thank goodness the solo portion had not begun. I was able to Venmo Chuck and get cash. Calling my bank, I was made aware that my international bank account is blacked out in 2 countries in the World, Vietnam is one. Ah, the adventures of nomad life. Chuck and I decided to share a Grab car to his guest house and I would walk from there to my hostel. This was the first time we would be staying completely separate and in different parts of a city, as I was supposed to be solo. The walk to my place was not an easy one, but I made it. My hostel, Happy Feet, was found after lots of research. I should have done a better job in my research. The wifi was abysmal and I was unlucky in bunkmates. My bunk was nice enough and it had a curtain and a fan, so I was comfortable when it was time to sleep. It was located right off of Beer Quarter, so my walks to and from were interesting, to say the least. Day 1 of exploring was going fine. Then walking down a street in the old town, I ran into my first scam of the trip. A hat was placed on my head, a picture was taken and then money was insisted upon. I will not go into boring details of the incident, but always be observant of your surroundings when traveling. You can remain friendly but firm when interacting with folks who are trying to make a living, but you must protect yourself as well. Thanks to those I love for helping me through this incident. The three above things all happened in my first 24 hours in Hanoi. This made the city itself leave a bad taste in my mouth. I was not a fan and it would take me a couple of days to shake my negative mood and start to try and enjoy it for what it is. There are a ton of beautiful things to enjoy and see. Hoan Kiem Lake is the center of the action in Old City and there is much to see around and in the lake. Jade Island sits in the lake and is home to Ngoc Son Temple. You are granted access via the Rising Sun Bridge. It is definitely a tourist spot, but it is stunning both during the day and at nighttime. There is also the interesting tale of the turtles of Hanoi that is fun to read up on. I almost allowed my bad mood to cause me to miss it. I am thankful Chuck was there to convince me to shake it off. Hoan Kiem Lake & Ngoc Son Temple You hear people say all the time that we should learn from history. The hardest thing for me to grasp is that history is documented from a person’s point of view, a man of power more often than not. This was never more clear than when I visited Hoa Lo Prison. Many of you have heard of the Hanoi Hilton, no doubt – the prison where John McCain was held during his years as a POW. Visiting this location kinda put me in a mood, one that still I am having a hard time explaining or coming to terms with. Reading their version of history, the history of being war-torn for so many years, it was all very eye-opening. The prison has been preserved and the story told is VERY heartbreaking, especially the time during the French War. One of the most interesting parts I found was that the United States was never made out to be a villain. More so, they just showed how the prisoners held there during the American (Vietnam) War were treated fairly and well. A harsh difference from how we are taught this same history in the States. I will continue to study this time in more depth, as I found it extremely interesting. Hoa Lo Prison Ever hear of a water puppet show or seen one? Well, I had not either. Water Puppetry dates back to the 11th century in Vietnam. It is a unique art where the puppets are made of wood and then lacquered and perform their acts on and in water. The show is performed to live traditional Vietnamese music and tells stories of local folklore. Hanoi hosts one of the few remaining troops of these artists and is housed in the old city. It travels, but for the most part, this is one of the last places left to still see a show. I had seen a few pics, but I had no idea what to expect during the show. We had nice seats and settled in for the roughly one hour show. It was odd, quirky, a bit weird but at the same time mesmerizing, beautiful and artistic. I really cannot explain this show in a better way, you truly must just see it. Water Puppet Show @ Hanoi Theatre Growing up my favorite book was The Little Engine that Could. It is still my favorite children’s book. I gift it often to expecting mothers or new babies. I have “I think I can” emblazoned (gifts from Mom mostly) on several things in my home. I think from this one book as a kid and my parents never letting me give up has given me an affinity for trains. Not to mention, that I just think it is silly that there are not more trains in the States. Anyways, I digress. Train Street in Hanoi is a small thoroughfare between close buildings where a train runs. A lot of the buildings host cafes and shops. This caused such an uptick in tourists flocking to this small area that the city forced it to close. People were not frequenting the cafes but coming just for the train, which passes within inches of you, and the photo ops. We tried to go a couple of times but a guard would not let us pass. Finally, we noticed that if a cafe worker escorted you to a cafe it was fine to pass. The crowds were smaller than Chuck had previously encountered and we were able to sit, enjoy a drink and watch the train whiz by. It was an incredible experience that lasted under a minute. However, the memory that it left will last forever. Scenes from Train Street Hanoi was not my favorite city of this adventure thus far (even cutting my stay by a week) but after regrouping and deciding to make the most of it, I was able to see the beauty of it. Scams, night market closings (coronavirus), hostel and banking issues, and such were overshadowed by the history and beauty of the city. It did me good to be reminded to look for the silver lining in all things. Miscellaneous pics of Hanoi, Vietnam Aunt Daeng’s-ป้าแดง ขนมเส้นในซอย February 28, 2020 “Food is everything we are. It’s an extension of nationalist feeling, ethnic feeling, your personal history, your province, your region, your tribe, your grandma. It’s inseparable from those from the get-go.” – Anthony Bourdain If you knew me 10 years ago and heard I would be embarking on a journey around the world, most of you would have had the same first question, “What will you eat?” Embarrassingly, I must admit I was a VERY picky eater. Over the years with the push of friends like Dusty and Chuck and just moving to larger cities and trying new things have improved this greatly. I have learned to not only try new things but my love of cooking new things has grown. My palette is still not all-encompassing but much broader than before. So, I was ready for the adventure ahead. In the cities I called home, I inevitably found my “favorite places” to eat. Places that not only served my favorite dishes but that just felt warm and home-like. This could be from the flavors, the options or just the greetings from the staff. Without realizing it, I was finding myself looking for this in my travels as well. Chiang Mai was my first long stop and without a doubt, I found my place here. Aunt Daeng’s – ป้าแดง ขนมเส้นในซอย. How people traveled without google maps I will never know. I began my search for lunch one day and this little place popped up. All the reviews mentioned “locals eat here” which in my mind meant it must be good. It was my day to pick and I chose here. Chuck and I were on our way. As we rounded a curve we saw what appeared to be a carport and saw tables and chairs. I was not sure what I was expecting but this was not it. We walked in and were immediately greeted by a sweet young lady who showed us the menu and even tried to help us with it. Quickly realizing she needed to switch to the one with pictures for us. I still had not tried many meals in Thailand yet so I decided to be safe. I went with the Pad Thai, yes I know lame. Y’all, I am not sure I will be able to enjoy pad thai in the states again. It was very fresh tasting. You could see Aunt Daeng off to the side tenderizing the chicken (yep cages in the back) and making the sauces over a rock. The noodles were perfect, the mix of heat and peanut was spectacular, and the chicken was just right. This place was legit. The regional specialty in Chiang Mai is Khao soi. It is offered at most eateries in the area and every top 10 list gives you a recommendation. It is a soup-like dish made with a mix of deep-fried crispy egg noodles and boiled egg noodles, pickled mustard greens, shallots, lime, ground chilies fried in oil, and meat (usually chicken) in a curry-like sauce containing coconut milk. Khao Soi is usually pretty spicy and adding toppings (greens and sprouts) is suggested. I decided that there was only 1 place to try it first, so I choose Aunt Daeng’s. I had no idea what it should taste like but I have no doubt that this was it. It was unbelievable and I went back 2 more times for just this dish. I subsequently tried it at nearly every place we went and this one was still the best out there. I will be trying my hand at making this when I return home without a doubt. On other trips to “my place,” I had stir-fried veggies over rice, I had the omelet, thai bbq, and the egg soup. Nothing was disappointing. If you are ever in Chiang Mai, do yourself a favor and make this a stop. Location: Suthep, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200, Thailand. I promise you, you will have one of your top meals in Thailand (for under 2 USD) and if not I will take you out for dinner ;). The service is the best I came across and the welcoming and knowing smiles made all the difference to me. Some of my delicious meals Remember to Breathe February 25, 2020 “Become the leader of your life. Lead yourself to where you want to be. Breathe life back into your ambitions, your desires, your goals, your relationships.”― Steve Maraboli After arriving in Luang Prabang, Laos, by slow boat, who knew the adventure was not over? Hauling all my luggage up a steep incline was no fun. Where were the baggage helpers at this stop?? Nonetheless, I made it to the top and into a tuk-tuk to get me to the guesthouse. I arrived and got checked in. I had little idea what to expect of my time here, though I am starting to get used to embracing the unknown. As the solo portion of my trip approaches, I am enjoying the last moments of spending time with the familiar. Chuck and I decided to invite our new friend, Diego (who we met in Pai), to share a room with us since he would be in Luang Prabang at the same time and he agreed. As I have mentioned, making new friends is one of the highlights of this adventure. We were staying near the Old City and it was all very walkable and small. Each evening there is a night market and we all know how I love a good night market! After the bustling markets in Thailand, this one was a stark contrast. It was quiet, organized and easy to shop. The downside was mostly just repeated items at every vendor. The other obvious difference was the way the vendors interacted with you. Unlike in Thailand, they could not be bothered by you. If you wanted to purchase something, you had to make the first move. They just sat and waited. This was not dissimilar to the service you would get in restaurants as well. The food, at first glance, is much like Thai food, but once you take a bite it is not to be. The biggest difference is the food is much lighter on flavors and spice. We even tried our hand at one place, where we cooked our own. Not to say we did not find some very lovely places to eat, including one very close to our place, which I ended up having several meals at. Friends and Food The biggest adventure of the week was a trip to the waterfalls. Kuang Si Falls is nestled about a 45-minute drive outside of town. The roads are rough, dusty and in bad repair, but the end result is well worth it. Our friends Nat and Pat, who we met on the Slow Boat, joined us for this adventure. Once you arrive you make your way past the Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre. Here they are working to save the moon bears (Asiatic Black bears), which have been kept in small cages to extract the bile from them to use in medications. It is a barbaric and terrible way of life for these poor animals. It was quite the learning experience because, honestly, I had never even heard of these bears. The mood was a little heavy after that, but we marched on. The falls have several heights as you go deeper into the forest. Each one is beautiful and unique. Diego had already been and mentioned the water was cold. So, we decided to eat our lunch (that we picked up from my fav lil place) and debate the best location for us to dive into the cold waters. I was the first in and it was refreshing. This reminded me to breathe as it took my breath away at the moment. It was not lost on me that life is the same way and at times we have to remember to breathe. I made my way over to the edge and sat alone to contemplate for a moment, which I had not realized but I have been doing at each new location. A must-see in Luang Prabang! Kuang Si Falls with Friends Diego had mentioned wanting to give Alms to the monks and I was excited to join in. Almsgiving is the respect given by a lay Buddhist to a Buddhist monk. It is not charity as presumed by many Westerners. It is a symbolic connection to the spiritual world and it shows humbleness and respect in the presence of society. The acts of alms giving assists in connecting the human to the monk. We rose at 5:00 am and made our way into town. We stopped and bought some rice and the nice lady set us up some stools to wait. At 5:30 am the monks began their march. Once the first group of monks had passed and we were out of rice we ventured around town to see more. If I were to guess we saw about 100 monks, most of whom were children. It was a humbling experience and I am honored to have taken part. Almsgiving My trip has been magical and I have gone pretty much nonstop since I departed the States. But in Luang Prabang, it really started to catch up with me. Another reminder to stop and breathe. I was starting to have some very familiar symptoms and realized I needed to take a break. I spent a few days just resting and letting my body recharge. To be frank, I probably would not have, but Chuck and Shawn convinced me it was very necessary. They were correct and it was very helpful. I spent a lot of time reading, planning, thinking, writing and, yes, breathing. Life is a balancing act and your body will tell you what it needs, if only you listen. Luang Prabang, Laos 2020 As the River Flows February 12, 2020 “We travel, some of us forever, to seek other states, other lives, other souls.” – Anais Nin The first four weeks of this adventure have seemed to fly by and at the same time, it feels like it has been ages. I continue daily to learn more about myself. I allow myself more time to dream, more freedom to do what I want and more time to learn from all the interesting souls I have met. Just like the Mekong River, my journey has been wide and adventurous. Boarding the bus to make our way to Chiang Kong, Thailand, I had no idea how the next three days would go. We were taking a “slow boat” to Luang Prabang, Laos. Chuck had wanted to do this ever since his buddies did it last year. I was not so sure, but I needed to add a week somewhere to make my travel dates all work. Fear is the enemy I am out to defeat on this trip and this led me to say yes. And off we went. I had seen the Gold Temple and the Silver Temple and so I was excited to see the White Temple, Wat Rong Khun. It is located in Chiang Rai, Thailand, and was on the route we were on. Our bus stopped and we had a short 20 minutes to check it out. The lines were long and it had an admission fee, so we just explored around the outside. It was very different than the other temples I have ventured to, but was just as stunning in it is individuality. If I ever return to the area, I will visit again and I will not miss the Black Temple I have heard so much about. The White Temple, Wat Rong Khun Six hours in a minibus is never a blast, but it was uneventful and my motion sickness pills kept me in good shape. We arrived in Chiang Kong and our guesthouse on the river. This place was NOTHING fancy and the bed was concrete hard. Overheard many other guests saying they just slept on the floor. But it did the job and we received a decent dinner, breakfast, and lunch to take on the boat. The following morning we got our lunches, new passport photos done and checked out. We got to the border, went through Thai immigration, hopped on another bus, checked into the Laos immigration and awaited our turn for a ride. Our Tuk Tuk made its way to the banks of the Mekong River. This one is a six-hour boat day to Pak Beng, Laos, for an overnight stay. While awaiting boarding, we made some new friends, Nat and Pat, and chatted with several others. I had read several blogs that mentioned you just had to try and find a place in Pek Bang. Luckily, the tour we were on offered a deal at one. It would be just $5 a person. It was a double room with an ensuite and so we took them up on it. Then the boarding process began and it was SLOW. Eventually, we were shoving off. We sat in a row with Nat and Pat and got to know them. It was lovely to exchange travel stories and learn more about their lives before an adventure like this. The scenery down the Mekong River is just beautiful. It was a lovely and crowded ride. And time really did go by at a decent speed and before I knew, just as the sun was setting, we had arrived in Pak Beng, Laos. As we were exiting the boat and I looked up, my heart dropped. I had all this luggage and the “steps” were broken and nonexistent in spots. Two guys offered to grab my bags and carry them up. At that moment he could have asked for every penny I had and I would have paid it. It was only 100 baht and totally worth it. We checked into our room and then went to dinner at a local dive bar, called Hive Bar. The food was yummy and they served a free shot of banana whiskey as you entered. I had the Laos lop and was not disappointed. Slow Boat into Pak Beng, Laos. 1st stop After a decently restful night and a much better bed, it was time to board another boat to our final destination. Nat and Pat had arrived before us and saved us seats which was super kind of them. I decided since I was in the middle this time to just listen to Dolly’s America podcast again. (I highly recommend taking a listen.) So, the majority of this day was spent in silence, observing the scenery and just taking some time to myself while in the company of 150 strangers. It was very interesting to see the locals and how they use the slow boats to get to and from the market. The way the boats just pull up to random rocks in the middle of seemingly nowhere to drop and pick up locals. The whizzing by of speed boats with 5-8 people crammed on them was slightly scary. All of this to say, I would 100% recommend doing this if you are in the area. It was a fantastic two days, even if exhausting. We made new friends, saw new places and new ways of living. Just as the river flows, so do the memories we make. Just a Piece of the Pai January 28, 2020 “Part of the magic of the experience lay in the sheer beauty of the setting: the breathtaking sight of the high mountains, the sweep of the sky, the panorama of the great valley. The beauty drives you out of the self for a moment – so that for this time, the self is not.” — Joseph Jaworski Over the last year (nearly exactly), Chuck has gone on and on about his trip to Pai. “It was so great. So different than Chiang Mai. Everyone in Pai is so chill, so fun, and it is beautiful.” Once we decided we would be visiting Thailand together, he mentioned we should go to Pai while we are here. I was on board because I want to see as much of the world as possible. Yet, I was skeptical of this magic land on a mountain in Thailand. On Monday morning, we left our bags with the staff at our co-living space and with just our backpacks, we headed to the bus station. Many of you are aware, I get terribly car sick. I made my way to a small pharmacy near the bus station to get medication for the 3.5-hour drive up the mountain. It had been mentioned many times about the curves and I was not going to risk it. The guy at the pharmacy was kind and gave me 12 pills for 10 Baht (0.32 USD). We loaded up and we got the front row; things were already looking up. I had taken 2 pills, so it did not take long for me to doze off. Luckily, I missed most of the 762 (yes the official #) curves up the mountain. We had arrived! Making our way through the small town was very different from the hustle and bustle of Chiang Mai. So far, Chuck was right. We got to Pai Manee Home, our home for the week. The decision to stay here was based strictly on the reviews of Momma Su, the owner. We were not disappointed in her hospitality. We were instantly made to feel right at home. But gone was my private apartment and shower. We were in a 6-bunk room with an outdoor, shared shower. But the bed was comfortable enough and the curtains made the bunks a bit more private. Breakfast at the house consisted of toast, jam, bananas, coffee, and tea. Nothing fancy, but most days it was enough to get us to lunch. Not staying in a party hostel means you might meet fewer people to run around with. I am sure this was the case, but we were able to make several new friends and hang with them several times. The highlight was definitely the night Momma Su made dinner for us. A fantastic spread of chicken/potato massaman curry, steamed mixed vegetables, and salad with homemade dressing. We were able to recharge each night and start anew the next day. Pai Manee was our home for a week. Pai Manee Home The vibe change was evident at every turn. The night market was great but much smaller than the ones in the city. The day time was sleepy in Pai, which allowed for time to work and be still. I enjoyed the moments I got to myself to read, meditate, and just be. It was hot during the day, especially if you found yourself in direct sunlight. I made my way to The Pool Bar several times just to dip my toes in the cold water. The flip side of that coin was how cold it was at night. Granted it was not “freezing” but when the temperature drops 30 degrees in an hour it sure feels that way. Maybe this is why everyone gathered in the small bars and warmed up with drinks. On Thursdays and Sundays, there is a fire show performance by Medicine Circus. It is out at Backpackers Paradise and I had heard many stories about this place. So, I made plans to not miss this. My new friend Rodrigo joined me and we ventured off. It was about a 20-minute walk outside of town and at night. Yep, we were freezing. We arrived early enough to get a seat near the front and waited for the show to begin. And begin it did. It was mesmerizing and the talent was amazing. They claim to be misfits and misunderstood, but I just saw sheer artistry in motion. Medicine Circus Fire Show On any travel list pertaining to Pai, Thailand, you will read about Pai Canyon and the sunset. I, too, had read about it, heard about it, and seven pictures of it. They offer tours of several of the sites that are more than a walk out of town. Chuck and I settled on a half-day tour that included Wat Phra That Mae Yen “The White Buddha”, a coffee farm, a Chinese settlement re-enactment, two pit stops, Boon Ko Ku So Bamboo Bridge, Pam Bok Waterfall, Pai Land Split and Pai Canyon at sunset. The White Buddha is breathtaking, not only in its size and beauty, but after you take ALL THE STAIRS to the top you are out of breath. The bamboo bridge takes you on a path above the rice fields to a temple at the end. The temple was simple yet stunning in comparison to the colorful, gold and silver ones I have been seeing. It was wooden and set in a dense forest. I took a few moments to sit and clear my mind. The crown jewel of all the Pai sites though, truly, is the sunset over Pai Canyon. It left me awestruck from the first moment. We trekked up and around to get to the top. Some places were very narrow and falling would have surely ended in death. I found an unoccupied spot out on a point. I sat quietly as the sun made its descent behind the horizon and let go of so much that was weighing me down. The amazing group of people on our tour just added to it and I am grateful to have them as friends. It is a moment I will carry with me for the rest of my life. The Tour of Pai One day, Chuck, his friend Luca, and I spent a few hours relaxing at the Sai Ngam hot springs. It was not what I was expecting (I was thinking spa), but I sure enjoyed it and so did my muscles. During one night market, I met up with another new friend, Diego, plus Rodrigo, Rodrigo’s friend Melinda and Chuck. We hung out for a bit and then we went to Spirit Bar. It is a hidden bar with a fire pit, live music, tye-dye, and a chill vibe. Our hostel friends Mikey, Stefano, and Lexie joined us as well. It was a fantastic night out with friends. I ventured out one afternoon to see new friends Rich and Paul at their very nice bungalow hotel. This turned into an all-evening thing and an adventure to Backpackers Paradise. They were able to give me lots of travel advice for the rest of my trip. Our final night was spent supporting Mikey, our Swiss friend from our hostel. He was playing In front of an audience for the first time at The Jazz House for open mic night. Mikey plays the didgeridoo and the hand pan. It was awesome and he did a great job. It was a fun night of great music to cap off the week. Pai, Thailand = Great New Friends I will look back on my week in Pai with sincere fondness. As with all parts of this adventure I am on, I am looking to find peace, calmness and myself. The magic of the mountains was evident in Pai from the people I met (all amazing), the incredible scenes of nature I witnessed, to the moments I was able to be still. Chuck was right, Pai was “so great.” We are back in Chiang Mai and have one more week to take in all the magic this northern region of the country has to offer. Posts navigation 1 2 Next